Last week, when I was out in Bordeaux, I was having a chat with a few guys and girls involved in the production and sale of Sauternes. They’re a bit nervous as sales are a bit on the stagnant side. From my point of view the wine is incredible, but the knowledge in the world of what it is needs addressing. So let’s start here, eh?
What is Sauternes?
It’s an AOC down to the very south of the Bordeaux wine region, on the south bank of the Garonne as it winds its way inland. It’s famous for making lusciously sweet dessert wines from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
How do they make it?
There’s lots of ways to make sweet wines, but one of the main ways is to concentrate the flavour and the sugars by getting rid of the water in the grapes. In Sauternes they do it by letting the grapes on the vine get infected by a fungus called Noble Rot, which splits the grapes and the water evaporates.
Did I say fungus?
Yes, I said fungus. Sounds a bit grim doesn’t it? It’s completely safe, and adds gorgeous flavours of orange marmalade and candied fruit. The vineyards of Sauternes is in prime place to contract Noble Rot, as the morning mists in the tributaries of the Garonne are exactly what’s needed!
What’s behind the cost?
Some say Sauternes is a bit expensive. I do get that. You’re not going to get much change from £25 for an entry-level (75cl) bottle. The reason behind this is the bunches, and most of the time the grapes themselves, need to be individually picked. There’s lots of manual work needed, and lots of time, and that costs.
Why buy it?
First and foremost, it’s immensely beautiful stuff! The wines are lusciously sweet, very full bodied, lovely balanced acidity, and full of ripe fruit flavours, honey, nuts, and…I’m going to have to stop, I’m salivating! Another thing is their ageability. These wines are built to last. You can buy a case of 6 and drink them all next weekend, or one every 5 years, no bother.
What should you buy?
Sauternes wines are seriously undervalued. For a Premier Cru Classé from Margaux you’re looking at £250+, from Sauternes it’s more like the £50 mark. Hey look, it’s not cheap cheap, I know that, but these wines will transform your meal, and add that massive boost to that most glorious of courses…pudding!
Head online now to www.20h33.co.uk, I’ve put on a selection of Sauternes there to give it a go. As ever, if you need further information or advice, then give myself or JB a shout anytime.
Enjoy!
Mike
Director of www.20h33.co.uk
Photo:©Pierre Grenet – astoriastudio.fr / 2012
Probably my favourite Sauternes, Château Suduiraut!